Good coffee, rain and good riding. NO! It’s not Portland but Boquete Panama!

Panama flag

Capital: Panama City

Population: 3,7 million

Language: Spanish

Currency: Dollar and Balboa

President: Ricardo Martinelli

Government: Constitutional Republic

Perched in the mountain, Boquete is a small town of 20,000 people. In Spanish, the word Boquete means ‘gap or opening’. It was through this gap that curious gold seekers trekked, looking for a cheaper and quicker way to the Pacific. It is a city with many faces. The faded buildings and local markets with colorful dresses are proof that Boquete is a working town. Many people work in coffee plantations or sale fruit in markets. Boquete has had an increase in tourist in the past few years and many tour companies catch your eyes on the main avenue. They often say eco-tourism but I am a bit skeptical about how ATV tours fir the eco part of their business! The last aspect of Boquete is its surge of retires who came to Boquete to find peace in their gated communities on the hills near town after a travel magazine ranked Boquete  the best place to retire.

View from above

View from above

One of DQ favorite loop. Lots of climbing.

One of DQ favorite loop. Lots of climbing.

Street downtown Boquete

Street downtown Boquete

Parque central

Parque central

Kids playing soccer....always

Kids playing soccer….always

Entertainment on the Parque central

Entertainment on the Parque central

Reminder you are still in Central America

Reminder you are still in Central America

Safety first! Many homes are barb wired. Surprisingly, the town feels so safe!

Safety first! Many homes are barb wired. Surprisingly, the town feels so safe!

Door to door rice salesman

Door to door rice salesman

Indigenous woman with her colorful dress

Indigenous woman with her colorful dress

Pretty woman

Pretty woman

Fire trucks. Wish I could see the firemen!!!

Fire trucks. Wish I could see the firemen!!!

Boquete is famous for its coffee and its flower festival, which we missed. Plenty flowers are still there to make the town very pleasant.

Local barber

Local barber

So we decided to make Boquete home for a while. It did not take us long to see potential here. Coffee shops, good food pretty cheap, cool nights (and that is a good thing in Wilma) and….good riding! The roads are paved and smooth, very little traffic and great scenery. Perfect! We found a cute little hostel owned by a German family with an interesting scene of the comic book hero, Tintin. Murals of Tintin are all over the place.

Our hostal. Tintin and le capitain Haddock

Our hostel. Tintin and le capitain Haddock

Dupont et Dupond

Dupont et Dupond

La piscine

La piscine

Common area where we spend a lot of time, while waiting for the rain to top

Common area where we spend a lot of time, while waiting for the rain to top

Dear Wilma

Dear Wilma

The trick in Boquete during this time of the year is you need to make sure than any outdoor activity is done in the morning because by 2 pm, it is a waterfall from the sky! And I always forget the towels outside so I have not had a dried towel to shower yet.

We have done 2 major outings so far:

-1- The visit of the Ruiz coffee plantation, a family owned business. The 91 year old owner still hangs out at the plantation is very friendly. We were told he was offered 21 millions for his business but decided to keep it. Our guide, Carlos was a charismatic, knowledgeable guide with well-timed jokes. The tour was fantastic except for the annoying girl from Atlanta who thought the guide was speaking to her personally and would make noises of understanding after each of his sentences. Of course she had some personal experiences and she also had to share with the group! Did I mention she was annoying yet? Oh yes, the tour was great. We got to see the entire process from a baby coffee plant to a cup of joe. Generally, Each plant gives 4 lbs. of coffee and it takes 35 beans to make a cup of coffee. The plantation is also home to many other plants which will attract insects of fungus leaving alone the coffee plants. There are like 16 steps to the all process and NO, I did not memorize those so look it up in goggle if you are interested. There are many different type of coffee plant and the Geisha is one of their most expensive one (up to $500 a pound). A worker’s salary depends how fast he/she can pick. They get paid $20 to $25 dollars/day and Carlos seemed to be very proud of how well the workers get paid at Ruiz. They also get free lodging and free healthcare. But believe me this is no postal work here, the plants are not in a neat row but clustered and mixed with other hazardous plants. Deadly snake (Fer de Lance) and spiders love to mingle in the plantation too. We were told to wear good walking shoes but I noticed the kids walking barefoot in the plantation! By this time annoying girl had already asked the guide to pose and smile multiple times. We continued to the manufacturing plant where a room stored 2.5 million worth of coffee bags. We finished with a tasting of coffee and I have to say Dan and I did not really love their coffee. Best fact of the tour: We learned that Ruiz sales to Stumptown in Portland!

From baby coffee plants...

From baby coffee plants…

The life cycle of cafe

The life cycle of cafe

Multiple harvests as the coffee matures to bright red beans

Multiple harvests as the coffee matures to bright red beans

Each red pod has 2 coffee beans

Each red pod has 2 coffee beans

The million dollar room!

The million dollar room with our guide!

Coffee nap

Coffee nap

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The original coffee roaster at la finca de Ruiz

The original coffee roaster at la finca de Ruiz

Panamanian wanna be

Panamanian wanna be

-2- If you come to Boquete, you can’t miss visiting the Explorador. It is a local gem, we were told. The garden is manicured with numerous blooming tropical plants. So far so good.  BUT as you walk the garden, you start noticing very bizarre homemade things/dolls/scarecrows. It is supposed to remind you of the Wizzard of Oz but it is just freaky. Everything has eyes, glued eyes. Shoes, flower plants, pieces of wood..etc. It was so bad that it was great!

Not weird at all!

Not weird at all!

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More weirdness!

More weirdness!

Dan rocking in a bizarre doll house

Dan rocking in a bizarre doll house

I am smiling but I can't wait to get out of here!

I am smiling but I can’t wait to get out of here!

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From Boquete, we are starting to organize the logistics of our return. The most important thing is to organize the shipping of Wilma. We found out that we absolutely needed the original title of the vehicle. A little tough in a country that does not have postal service. Our angel friend Laurence moved the earth to ship it to us STAT at a small rate of $85! It should arrive at the freight agent in Panama City this Friday.

We have a few more days in Boquete and more adventures to come.

Uvita or the town of the tiniest bathing suits!

On the Pacific coast, Uvita is a little hamlet of houses and shops that gives you a feel of what Costa Rica used to be like. It is home to a very small national Park: Parque Nacional Marino Ballena which is named for its migrating pods of humpback whales and also its shape. A stretch of sand is accessible to people (at low tide) to get to the tail of the whale shape peninsula. Of course the view of the entire tail is better on photos taken from above but it is still cool to walk to the tail, turn around and admire the lush jungle meeting the sand. If I were a kid I would want to play Robinson Crusoe! It could also be the perfect spot for an episode of survivor. The rain gets us on our walk back. It is a warm rain. Rain jackets are worthless as they just make you sweat. It is better to embrace it and just let the water falling from the sky refresh you. Or do what most locals do and use an umbrella.

Giant bamboos

Giant bamboos

Waterfall near Uvita

Waterfall near Uvita

Parque Nacional Ballena. We are on the tail looking at the land with water coming from both sides. In a couple hours the trail to the tail will be unwalkable

Parque Nacional Marino Ballena. We are on the tail looking at the land with water coming from both sides. In a couple hours the trail to the tail will be unwalkable

Our first robbery, after our Mexico fiasco (see post prior), happened at Uvita! We felt safe, nestled in a private property, fenced in, with people sleeping next to us. It happened at night as I recall seeing “it” before going to bed. I woke up in the morning and…..my bathing suit had disappeared! We searched the van and the property but in vain. It was after all a $5 Mexican 2 piece bathing suit! After swimming in my undies for a day, I decided it was time to spurge for another suit. Now, I had been noticing women on the beach with tiny bathing suits! For a better visual, I would say the girls’ butt were eating their bathing suit. Dan noticed to! He did not mind! Today, I did mind because I knew that my options for buying a bathing suit were going to be limited to this tiny tiny little suit. I still shopped multiple stores, could never tell if it was the front of back of the bathing suit because they looked the same. I even tried an extra-large one thinking it would cover my behind slightly more. NO LUCK! Finally I found it! Still very small to my taste but I bought it. It costed me $4. The next step was: How was I going to avoid burning  all those white areas that used to be covered and now were exposed? You got it! Today I got burn! But now I own a Costa Rican bathing suit! Yoohoo!

The weather has turned. By noon, the day is pretty much over as a curtain of water hits you! This is not the drizzling kind of rain or mist but more of a chubby, drenching rain. The roads mostly unpaved become muddy lakes. Hmmmmm! The amount of hours playing cards, and drinking wine is increasing, the amount of outdoor activities decreasing. We are asking ourselves how long can we  go like this without becoming Wilma crazy. Should we return home earlier? We decide to push on to Panama the next few days and see how it goes. We are told by a Costa Rican weather wizard that this rain is unusual for the season and that big rains don’t usually start until July.

Sudden downpour

Sudden downpour

We are now in Golfito, southern coast of Costa Rica, an hour from the Panama border. The road to Golfito was magnificent as we bordered the Parque Nacional Corcovado, the undisputed gem in the southern zone. I had read the above sentence in the guide but looking at this immensity of jungle was breathtaking  Suddenly, I wanted to go there so bad. The leaves are monstrous and greener than green. This untouched forest is unbelievable and requests (according to the guide book) some serious commitment and adventurism to trek it. We considered it but a storm growing in the area makes us decide against it and we save it for another time, maybe!

Manuel Antonio, Smallest National Park in Costa Rica

Coming down from Monteverde was brutal! It felt like the temperature was rising a degree every turn we took. We were stopped in a small village to let a local parade go by. That was a nice surprise.

Start of the parade

 

Colorful floats

 

Bulls playing nice

Manuel Antonio is pretty touristy. If the National Park wasn’t there I have a feeling that this little cluster of hotels and restaurant s would not be there. The beach strip is pretty sketchy and overpriced. The part of town located higher up on, away from the beach seems more “town like”. Our search for a decent and safe place to park Wilma and camp was unsuccessful. We went for a small hotel room with kitchen, and a pool and AC! Hooray, we have AC! That means tomorrow for the first time, I will get to hear the birds chirping and not the loud hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm of the fan! I am psyched!

Our daily morning routine consists of sipping coffee while watching the Giro de Italia live on the computer, then DQ goes on a ride while I work on the bog. NOT exercising is part of MY daily routine and I have finally accepted it. I make sure I don’t miss a day! This morning, we are checking out the smallest National park in Costa Rica. Fantastic! Indeed very small but numerous sitting of wild life. The trails took us to an adorable beach and we spent most of the afternoon watching the iguanas and the Euros with their banana hammocks strolling around the beach. It was $10 well spent. Tomorrow we will drive an hour to check out Uvita.

Sloth hanging

Sloth hanging

Those guys are everywhere and they are good models because they let people get very close

Those guys are everywhere and they are good models because they let people get very close

Those crabs populated the forest and were hard to photograph as they stay close to their house.

Those crabs populated the forest and were hard to photograph as they stay close to their house.

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Costal view

Costal view

Me screaming: "Dan! Don't make me look fat!"

Me screaming: “Dan! Don’t make me look fat!”

Sweet iguana

Sweet iguana

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Got closer and he spitted on me!

Got closer and he spitted on me!

Monteverde, Costa Rica

35 km of dirt roads shook Wilma for 3 hours before entering the small town of Santa Helena. We had just arrived in the heart of the Costa Rican cloud/rain forest. Monteverde gets on average 118 inches of rain per year (Portland OR gets 35 in/year). The surroundings are so lush and green. The town is pretty touristy with tour operators at every corner.

Road to Monteverde

 

On our way to Monteverde

 

Cafe please!

It is very difficult to decide what to do as there are so many advertisements for guided tours, Zip lining, canyon-ing, and night walks. We decide to do a guided day hike in one of the local park. Our guide is enthusiastic and funny. We learn about critters and birds and spot some spider monkeys and a pretty good size snake. The guide Adrian seems to be an expert at calling the birds. His whistling is phenomenal! We get to admire a Quetzal (the Guatemalan national bird who probably thought Costa Rica was safer and more modern so decided to migrate!) and also the Bellbird (national bird). We also learn about this plant you can squeeze to make ink. Adrian draws an amazing pic in front of us. We also discover that the wasp nest can make great paper to write on. We finally observe some crazy bees that will get into your hair, secrete a scent to call other bees to join the party.

Our campsite is fabulous, We watch the jungle unfold in front of us, feel the heat then the rain drops then the heat then the rain drops then the…… The little hostel gives us comfort by providing a bathroom and some coffee and wifi! Wilma provides a cozy bed and a great kitchen. Dan is shredding the dirt roads. I adventure once and follow a race (runners) going down a dirt road, being cheered at water stops. The terrain is loose rocks, often slippery due to the heavy rains. The card game, set back is part of our daily routine. Life seems easy, simple and good.

How about walking above the tropical cloud forest! 12 hanging bridges will let you experience that while admiring the cloud forest from above. It is amazing and the size of the vegetation below us blows our minds away.

Our insect tour is a disaster. A waste of $15. We did learn about those 2.5 cm long bullet ants whose bite is incredibly painful. The guide reassures us by saying that every clinic is equipped with the anti-venom for the Fer de Lance snake a deadly snake very popular in Costa Rica.

On our last day our hostel host convinces us to walk the Monteverde reserve rain forest. We are delighted as we hike under the very wet canopy of the cloud forest. Lianas vines)are hanging from every tree, majestic ferns and gigantic leaves surround us. It is truly magical. The rain and wind makes it even more dramatic. We can see the clouds envelop us and move through us. A long dirt road awaits us to return to sea level.

Guided tour through the cloud forest

Guided tour through the cloud forest

Ink plant

Ink plant

This tree get hollow due to another tree which wraps himself around it and suffocates it therefore killing the life inside,

This tree get hollow due to another tree which wraps himself around it and suffocates it therefore killing the life inside,

View inside the hollow tree

View inside the hollow tree

Those bees can leave a scent in your hair to call other bees to the party

Those bees can leave a scent in your hair to call other bees to the party

Famous bird around here, can't recall the name

Famous bird around here, can’t recall the name

Non venomous snake

Non venomous snake

The Quetzal bird

The Quetzal bird

Spider monkeys

Spider monkeys

Hummingbird

Hummingbird

Prickly beans with small black pods inside which supposed to bring luck to the one carrying them in his pocket

Prickly beans with small black pods inside which supposed to bring luck to the one carrying them in his pocket

So many lianas, fun playground

So many lianas, fun playground

The Costa Rican mistletoe

The Costa Rican mistletoe

Life as usual, delicious food, riding a bit, and a hike on the suspended bridges.

Making dinner in WIlma

Making dinner in WIlma

Sun setting. 61 degrees. Cooling down. yeah!

Sun setting. 61 degrees. Cooling down. yeah!

Wilma!

 

Dan chilaxing in WIlma

Dan chilaxing in WIlma

Dan on one his morning rides to the park while I ride in the bus!

Dan on one his morning rides to the park while I ride in the bus!

Oolala! Time to shave the head between two rain drops.

Salvatura Suspended Bridges

Salvatura Suspended Bridges

Giant ferns

Giant ferns

Jungle like setting

Jungle like setting

Green background

Green background

Natural umbrella

Natural umbrella

 

Warning

Warning

Someone is not  following the warning

Someone is not following the warning

 

The cloud froest

The cloud froest

 

View from above

View from above

 

Cafe at the lodge

Cafe at the lodge

Eve!

Eve wanna be!

On our last day our hostel host convinces us to walk the Monteverde reserve rain forest. We are delighted as we hike under the very wet canopy of the cloud forest. Lianas vines)are hanging from every tree, majestic ferns and gigantic leaves surround us. It is truly magical. The rain and wind makes it even more dramatic. We can see the clouds envelop us and move through us. A long dirt road awaits us to return to sea level.

 

 

 

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Natural umbrella. Needed!

Natural umbrella. Needed!

Getting set up for the real pic!

Getting set up for the real pic!

Butterfly hatching

Butterfly hatching

The artsy one. Wind in the rain forest.

The artsy one. Wind in the rain forest.

Banana plantations on our way to the Manuel Antonio (coast). Temp is quickly rising to 95 degrees

Banana plantations on our way to the Manuel Antonio (coast). Temp is quickly rising to 95 degrees

Visit to the Jones-Roulier in Costa Rica

We have been talking about it for a long time! It is time to visit our friends Erika and Nik who moved to Costa Rica from Portland Oregon with their 3 children.  We left the heat of Samara beach and watched the thermometer go down as we made our way up to the region of Lake Arenal. The lake is the largest lake in CR (30km /5km) and what makes this place even more beautiful is the Arenal volcano watching its reflection in the lake. On the way we spot a dozen howler monkeys in a tree. The vegetation is now lush and green and the leaves size is growing larger every turn on the road.

Macademia cafe on our way to Nueva Arenal

Macadamia shelves flooring

YES! Beautiful paved Costa Rican roads! No pot holes, no topes! No police!

Lago Arenal

The small town of Arenal is charming and very authentic as local stroll down the calle principal. We are lucky, this week-end is an annual fiesta with bull entertainment in the arena and a horse parade. Every single Arenal resident has dug out cowboy boots, cowboy hat and tight jeans out of their closet. From the 4 year old to the 99 year old, NO exception!  It is quite a scene! And believe me the jeans are tight tight jeans! They would put Britney Spear ashamed. Boys and girls are parading watching the horsemen getting ready. The show “starts” at noon, meaning they start getting ready at noon! We learn this the hard way as our legs can barely support us when the show finally starts at 15:30.

Fiesta in Nueva Arenalfamily  showing off  their cowboy wardrobe

There were some tight jeans...and tighter jeans!

 

Nik trying to get a job as a cotton candy vendorNik trying to get a job as a cotton candy vendorHola chica!Hola chica!

Youngest riderYoungest rider

Caballeros getting readyCaballeros getting ready

.and the fourth amigos.and the fourth amigos

All kind of footwearAll kind of footwear

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Cowboys getting ready for the bullsCowboys getting ready for the bulls

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Pretty dancer in the arenaPretty dancer in the arena

Night fiesta

Dan and I in 30 years, travelling!Dan and I in 30 years, travelling!

 

Now, what we really need to talk about is the HOT AMAZING showers we have been taking and the hot water  we are getting to do the dishes! The shower is so blog worthy! The house is perched on a hill and is also home for many many birds who chirp all day long. The Jones gang can name most of them! They spot the clay-colored thrush (national bird) by his very specific whistle. A big toad comes jumping at night, and bright colored insects patrol around the property. We can hear the crying bamboos on the side of the house and the howler monkeys far away. It is a very relaxing place and an open air patio makes the perfect place to share stories.

We took a day trip to visit Castillo, a small village sitting on the Edge of the lake. A jungle walk in Arenal National Park and a delicious lunch while staring at the volcano made it a perfect day. The waiter explains that the volcano has not erupted for the past 2 years and it has really hurt the tourist industry. He points at where the hot lava would be running down and says: “It used to erupt every 30 minutes before it stopped”.

In Costa Rica they build roads just for you. You may have to wait a bit.In Costa Rica they build roads just for you. You may have to wait a bit.

View of Arenal volcano from Castillo villageView of Arenal volcano from Castillo village

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Me tarzanMe tarzanMe JaneMe Jane

Ceiba treeCeiba tree

New friendNew friendA  Idon'tknowhisname kinda bugA Idon’tknowhisname kinda bug

Dan kissing monster mossDan kissing monster moss

On our return to casa de Jones, Sullivan is waiting to jump in Wilma to play legos in it. He says: “I like this kitchen because it’s my size and I can see what’s cooking on the stove”.

Sullivan discovering the joy of cleaning a micro home in 5 minutes

We have also had the chance to do some mountain biking in the area. The loop takes you up to a view point of the lake and volcano. It is steep and loose gravel. I did it once but Dan and Nik are making it a morning habit.

A side note on food! We have been gorging ourselves on Gallo pinto (rice and beans) as well as fresh fruit (pineapple and melons) and vegetables (yuccas principally). It is the main diet of the Ticos and contributes to the fact that life expectancy in Costa Rica exceeds that of the United States.

We are taking off to La Fortuna next, a small town closer to the volcano.

Loading up on fruit at the local market

Loading up on fruit at the local market

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Costa Rica….costa mucho!

Costa Rica flag

Capital: San Jose

Population: 4.5 million and a life expectancy of almost 77 years, one of the highest in the world.

Language: Spanish

Currency: Colon (es)

President: Laura Chinchilla

Government: Democratic republic

Here we go again, Today we are crossing the Nicaragua/Costa Rica border, with our stack of photocopies, our passports handy, our happy naive tourist face on and our border crossing outfit. Mine consists of my mum’s pants (Dan named them that way), they are just khaki pants with pockets on the leg. Yes, they are a bit high waist I have to admit! A blue shirt with sleeve, and tennis shoes finish the outfit.

The border crossing takes 1 ½ hour. No big deal, some confusion of course but overall painless. We want to think we are getting better at it! We have found a website “Drive the Americas” where a man has recorded every steps of the border crossing. It is priceless and we have to remember to send him a big thank you email! He even tells you which color the building is and will give you descriptions such as more trash in front of it or silly other details that are vital to cross borders without crying.

We drive on a smooth road for a while…. With road signs!!! The houses look nice…r. Then we arrive in a small town and it has real stores with real buildings and they are FINISHED! And no arm guys!  We are amazed! I suddenly realized that Costa Rica is the Dubai of Central America. We make our way to Samara beach. We are in Ahhhh! Nice wide sand beach with coconut trees, blue water…It is like a postcard. Of course we get lost in the tiny town and are unable to find the campground at first. After lunch, we decide to not give up and finally arrive.  It is ideal. We are pretty much on the beach with electricity, shower, and bathroom for $12 per night. Jackpot!

The next few days, we pretty much swim, lie on the beach, swim again, watch the surfers, the thongs bathing suits and eat some fruit and seafood between parties of cribbage.

Life  is expensive in CR compare to the previous countries we visited. Every time we buy something or eat out, we are shocked! BUT I guess you gotta pay the price for being in a beautiful, well organized country where you don’t fear for your life every day.

The roads are good riding roads and I even participate in one morning bike ride! Beautiful scenery ended by a plunge in the ocean. Dan has officially no more cycling tan marks! Big step!

Samara beach, CR. Not bad of a spot!

Samara beach, CR. Not bad of a spot!

Good morning!
Good morning!

Not our bed but lovely view

Not our bed but lovely view

Our "other view"! Dan kept insisting on this spot! I wonder why!!!!

Our “other view”! Dan kept insisting on this spot! I wonder why!!!!

or that view?

or that view?

I would rather look at THAT view!

I would rather look at THAT view!

Gotta have the horses on the beach shot! so Voila!

Gotta have the horses on the beach shot! so Voila!

Early morning wake up

Early morning wake up

Bike ride on the Costa Rica coast

Bike ride on the Costa Rica coast

No one to take pics of us smiling, so we tried a self portrait

No one to take pics of us smiling, so we tried a self portrait

Our shower! Simple! The best! Just a pipe sticking out the ceiling.
Our shower! Simple! The best! Just a pipe sticking out the ceiling.

Now...view from the back of Wilma! Dan quotes: "It's the mullet view! It looks good in the front but nasty in the back"

Now…view from the back of Wilma! Dan quotes: “It’s the mullet view! It looks good in the front but nasty in the back”